How To: Matching your fishing outfit to your target species

Given the title – Matching your fishing outfit (rod/reel) to your target species– it would be a simple matter to say little fish / light gear, and big fish / heavier gear. And in many instances, that might be enough; however, and as in most things, there’s a little bit more to getting the right balance of rod, reel, line, and species.

And that’s the essence of matching your rod and reel to your target species – balance. But it’s not a balancing act of one element or variable in the equation, but rather of all the elements that constitute the outfit as a whole. That is, rod, reel, line, terminal tackle e.g. swivels and weights, and lure. It all works together to create a singular unit that provides the utmost in efficiency, effectiveness, and performance.

To do this, we must consider these principle variables, and then answer our own questions as they relate to our target species.

Where does the fish live in terms of water depth, bottom structure, current (if applicable), emergent/submergent vegetation, or hard cover, such as fallen or standing timber? Does the target species prefer live prey, e.g. crappies and shiner minnows, cut bait, e.g. channel catfish and shad chunks, or artificial lures, such as the spinnerbaits or topwater plugs traditionally used by bass anglers?

And finally, how big and strong are the fish you intend to catch? A one-pound crappie can be caught on light or ultralight gear spooled with #2 or #4 monofilament line using a lively minnow fished quite simply under a pencil bobber; however, a #14 steelhead hooked in a fast-flowing river will typically require a heavier rod (medium action / medium power) fitted with a reel capable of holding sufficient line to handle the longer runs for which these ocean-going rainbow trout are known for. Here, to know the species is to best prepare yourself regarding your fishing outfit selection.

Here, we’re looking at two variables – length, and action. Shorter rods, e.g 6’6” usually allow for more accurate casts and are easier to maneuver in tight angling situations, like those encountered when wading a smaller creek and casting light spinners for eastern brook trout. Larger, stronger fish will often call for heavier, likewise stronger rods, while many anglers prefer longer (8’ and longer) rods to facilitate in casting farther.

It should go without saying that a spinning reel goes with a spinning rod, baitcaster with a baitcaster, and a spin-casting or closed face reel with the appropriate spin-casting reel. Beyond that, two considerations come into play. One, matching the drag rating (in pounds) to the presumed fighting strength of the target species. The one-pound crappie mentioned earlier will require less drag; a blue marlin considerably more. A good rule of thumb is to set the drag to approximately one-third of the line’s breaking strength, e.g. a drag rating of #6 when using #20 monofilament line.

And two, line capacity. Smaller fish like our one-pound crappie won’t make long runs; thus, a spinning reel capable of holding perhaps 100 yards of #6 monofilament should be sufficient. A 9’ white sturgeon, on the other hand, would be best fought using a much larger unit such as Piscifun’s Salis X trolling reel containing almost 300 yards of #80 braided line.

Unlike yesteryear when anglers had their choice of either heavy braided nylon or monofilament fishing line, fishers today can choose from traditional monofilament, braided line or simply braid, or fluorocarbon. In a nutshell –

Monofilament– Inexpensive; versatile; easy to work with; holds knots well; and provides stretch or limited shock absorbing qualities. Can ‘curl’ if left on a reel or spool for extended periods of time. Degrades in sunlight / ultraviolet light.

Braid – More expensive than monofilament; requires special knots; can slip or cause ‘ghost drag’ on smooth spool arbors; very strong; small diameter means higher line capacities when compared to monofilament.

Fluorocarbon– Likewise more expensive than monofilament; abrasion resistant; holds knots well; virtually invisible underwater; excellent choice for clear or shallow water situations.

So back to our one-pound crappie, for which most would use traditional (and relatively inexpensive) monofilament in the #2 to #6 category. A Washington sturgeon fisher, however, might opt for an #80 or #100 braided line, due to its strength and diameter, the latter translating into higher line capacity. And finally, a Wisconsin angler chasing summer steelhead in low-water conditions would wisely choose a nearly-invisible fluorocarbon line, say #14 to #16 when working his jig, egg cluster, or Blue Fox spinner.

Retrieve speed is another element to be considered when deciding on a rod/reel/line combination as it relates to a particular species. A catfish angler soaking cut gizzard shad on the bottom of a slow-flowing river doesn’t need a ‘fast’ reel, but rather one that casts well, offers a quality drag system, and can handle anything from a #5 channel ‘cat to a #55 flathead. A bass angler, on the other hand, ‘burning’ a buzzbait across the surface in search of smallmouth needs a unit like Piscifun’s Viper X High Speed spinning reel in order to have both the speed to work the lure correctly, as well as the strength to subdue a #6 smallmouth.

It’s true. There are indeed specialized tools for specific tasks, or at the very least tools that are better suited for This Operation or That Operation than might be others. A hammer is much more efficient with nails than is, say, a shovel, although in a pinch, either might work!

The same could be said for fishing outfits and species. By matching one’s equipment and the so-called angling situation, i.e. rod, reel, line, lure or bait, and the environmental considerations of water depth, clarity, and structure, the challenge that is fishing becomes not only more successful, but much more enjoyable as well!